- Cutting Tool
Saw & Miter Box or Pipe Cutter (Ratchet Type, Wheel Type) - Pipe deburring & beveling tool, file or knife - Solvent Cement
PVC cement for PVC materials, CPVC cement for CPVC materials
- Primer
- Cleaner
- Cotton Rag
- Square
- Scale
- Felt-tip Pen
- Tape Measure
- Brush
- Insertion Tool (6” and above)
- Container (Metal Cans to Hold Cement or Primer)
1.Cutting (1,2,3,4)
Pipe ends must be cut square. Check the pipe end with a square to make sure it has been cut squarely. Note: A diagonal cut reduces bonding area in the most effective and critical part of the joint. Wheel type cutters are not generally recommended for large diameters since they tend to raise flare at the pipe end.
This flare must be removed with a file or deburring tool, as it will scrape the cement away when pipe is inserted into the fitting.
2.Deburring (5)
All burrs, chips, fillings, etc., should be removed from both around the pipe before joining. Use a knife, deburring tool or a half-round coarse file. All pipe ends should be beveled from 45 degrees. Note: Failure to chamfer the edge of the pipe may remove cement from the fitting socket, causing the joint to leak.
3.Inspection, Cleaning (6,7)
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag.
Check pipes and fittings possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.
4.Test Dry Fit of the Joint
Check pipe and fittings for dry fit before cementing. The pipe should be inserted to the fitting easily about 1/3 to 2/3 of the socket depth.
5.Depth-Of-Entry Mark (8,9)
Measure the socket depth of the fitting and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. This reference mark can be used when joining to ensure the pipe is completely bottomed into the fitting during assembly.
6.Priming (10,11)
This process is necessary to penetrate and soften both pipe and fitting socket surfaces for cementing process.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural bristle brush. Move quickly without hesitation to the cementing procedure while surfaces are still wet with primer.
7.Application of Solvent Cement (12,13)
Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside of the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting socket while the primer is still wet.
Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the fitting socket. Avoid puddling.
Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end. Note: Read all warnings on primer and cement cans.
8.Joint Assembly (14)
Work quickly, insert the pipe into the fi tting socket bottom with a one-quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement.
Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has reached the bottom of the fi tting socket.
A good joint will have suffi cient cement to make a bead all the way around the outside of the fitting hub.
Hold the pipe and fitting together for a minimum of 30 seconds to make sure the pipe does not move or push out of the socket.
9.Cleanup (15)
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fi tting with a dry cotton rag while the cement is still soft.
10.Initial Set Time
Initial set time is the necessary time to allow before the joint can be carefully handled.
Note: In damp or humid weather allow 50% more set time.
11.Joint Cure Time
Joint cure time is the necessary time to allow before pressurizing system.
Note: In damp or humid weather allow 50% more cure time.
Solvent Cement Welding Joints
- Cutting Tool
Saw & Miter Box or Pipe Cutter (Ratchet Type, Wheel Type)
- Pipe deburring & beveling tool, file or knife
- Solvent Cement
PVC cement for PVC materials, CPVC cement for CPVC materials
- Primer
- Cleaner
- Cotton Rag
- Square
- Scale
- Felt-tip Pen
- Tape Measure
- Brush
- Insertion Tool (6” and above)
- Container (Metal Cans to Hold Cement or Primer)
1.Cutting (1,2,3,4)
Pipe ends must be cut square. Check the pipe end with a square to make sure it has been cut squarely.
Note: A diagonal cut reduces bonding area in the most effective and critical part of the joint. Wheel type cutters are not generally recommended for large diameters since they tend to raise flare at the pipe end.
This flare must be removed with a file or deburring tool, as it will scrape the cement away when pipe is inserted into the fitting.
2.Deburring (5)
All burrs, chips, fillings, etc., should be removed from both around the pipe before joining. Use a knife, deburring tool or a half-round coarse file. All pipe ends should be beveled from 45 degrees.
Note: Failure to chamfer the edge of the pipe may remove cement from the fitting socket, causing the joint to leak.
3.Inspection, Cleaning (6,7)
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag.
Check pipes and fittings possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.
4.Test Dry Fit of the Joint
Check pipe and fittings for dry fit before cementing. The pipe should be inserted to the fitting easily about 1/3 to 2/3 of the socket depth.
5.Depth-Of-Entry Mark (8,9)
Measure the socket depth of the fitting and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. This reference mark can be used when joining to ensure the pipe is completely bottomed into the fitting during assembly.
6.Priming (10,11)
This process is necessary to penetrate and soften both pipe and fitting socket surfaces for cementing process.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural bristle brush. Move quickly without hesitation to the cementing procedure while surfaces are still wet with primer.
7.Application of Solvent Cement (12,13)
Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside of the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting socket while the primer is still wet.
Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the fitting socket. Avoid puddling.
Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.
Note: Read all warnings on primer and cement cans.
8.Joint Assembly (14)
Work quickly, insert the pipe into the fi tting socket bottom with a one-quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement.
Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has reached the bottom of the fi tting socket.
A good joint will have suffi cient cement to make a bead all the way around the outside of the fitting hub.
Hold the pipe and fitting together for a minimum of 30 seconds to make sure the pipe does not move or push out of the socket.
9.Cleanup (15)
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fi tting with a dry cotton rag while the cement is still soft.
10.Initial Set Time
Note: In damp or humid weather allow 50% more set time.Initial set time is the necessary time to allow before the joint can be carefully handled.
11.Joint Cure Time
Note: In damp or humid weather allow 50% more cure time.Joint cure time is the necessary time to allow before pressurizing system.